“Paris has always been an aspirational place for people to express their creativity,” declared Maria Grazia Chiuri for Vogue, whose Pre-Fall 2017 collection for Dior marks the first of many creative iterations she will present throughout a significant year in the maison’s history: its 70th anniversary.
Well now, there is just a SMALL problem with this quote from Vogue. It wasn’t Paris the source of inspiration for this Pre-Fall collection, but a particular embroidered folk coat from my native county, Bihor, Romania, namely the “cojoc binşenesc”. This particular embroidered folk coat has an estimated age of 100 years old, part of the collection of Răzvan Fericean.
The discovery was made by the owner of the Facebook page Ţara Binşului – Terra Beiusensis, in Singapour, at the price of 35.000 $, the man himself owning a piece of this original embroidered folk coat. On his Facebook page, he states “All we want is some written credit to be proud of our heritage as presented in Dior Pre-Fall 2017 collection in Paris”.
But the goal, she insisted, was focused: proposing a wardrobe that encouraged individuality. “I don’t think it’s possible today to only show one look; I think women want iconic pieces that allow them to find a look for themselves,” she said. Pointing to some of the test shots, she noted how long embroidered coats over tiered, sheer dresses; vests with velvet incrustations of hearts and diamonds; and Japanese denim with neo-folkloric metallic embroidery all contributed to an eclectic interpretation of Miss Dior. A steady push-pull of respect and disruption produced several catchy pieces, including the new bag constructed with fine saddlery craftsmanship only to be emblazoned, hip-hop style, with Dior in block typography and finished with a woven and studded strap that looked like a souvenir from a trip to Nepal. — Maria Grazia Chiuri for Vogue
As you can see, she gives credit to Japanese folk, Nepal souvenir, but she forgets to mention that the embroidered folk coat, which is identical, she came up with nothing new in regards, is a Romanian, more exactly a Bihor county folk design.
I can tell you that I am very honored to see that the folklore fashion from my native county was a source of inspiration for the newly Creative Director of Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri, but I would be even prouder if she could give the credit to our national heritage.